Quick update on this. Car was in dealers last week for service MOT etc. Spoke to technical about the squeaky exhaust, he reckoned he had addressed the problem by lubricating the two exhaust valves. Sounded ok when leaving the dealership but by the time I was back home the squeak had returned. Spoke to dealership and am advised that the only real remedy is a replacement back box. Will be speaking to the dealer I bought the car from on Monday as they were alerted to the issue within the first 30 days of ownership.
Any advice guidance on this matter would be welcome.
Exhuast Squeak
did this get sorted bob?Bobster67 wrote: βSun Aug 19, 2018 4:31 pm Quick update on this. Car was in dealers last week for service MOT etc. Spoke to technical about the squeaky exhaust, he reckoned he had addressed the problem by lubricating the two exhaust valves. Sounded ok when leaving the dealership but by the time I was back home the squeak had returned. Spoke to dealership and am advised that the only real remedy is a replacement back box. Will be speaking to the dealer I bought the car from on Monday as they were alerted to the issue within the first 30 days of ownership.
Any advice guidance on this matter would be welcome.
Hi, as per previous posts on this subject the back box is not covered by the extended jag warranty. However as I reported the issue early to the dealer I bought the car from they have agreed to cover the cost of replacing the back box.
Matters complicated slightly by the fact I that I live no where near the dealer so they have had to arrange for the work to be done at another branch within the franchise but closer to home.
Car now booked in for repair in early November.
Matters complicated slightly by the fact I that I live no where near the dealer so they have had to arrange for the work to be done at another branch within the franchise but closer to home.
Car now booked in for repair in early November.
The butterfly valve pivot shaft simply needs lubricating, you don't need a new back box. The service guys have not used the correct lubricant.
The problem with using any WD40 or similar spray is that as soon as the exhaust gets hot (within5 minutes!) the lubricating properties have disappeared.
There are plenty of cheap/correct lubricants that are designed for high temperature and usually contain copper or some other metal in suspension with a high melting point lubricant. Halfords do a can that's made for the job.
As said before, operate the valve by hand form under the car and spray it liberally over a day or two and give it chance to soak in and work its' magic.
The problem with using any WD40 or similar spray is that as soon as the exhaust gets hot (within5 minutes!) the lubricating properties have disappeared.
There are plenty of cheap/correct lubricants that are designed for high temperature and usually contain copper or some other metal in suspension with a high melting point lubricant. Halfords do a can that's made for the job.
As said before, operate the valve by hand form under the car and spray it liberally over a day or two and give it chance to soak in and work its' magic.
2016MY V8R IRR
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
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Mich PS4S's
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ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
Tel wrote: βTue Oct 02, 2018 4:44 pm The butterfly valve pivot shaft simply needs lubricating, you don't need a new back box. The service guys have not used the correct lubricant.
The problem with using any WD40 or similar spray is that as soon as the exhaust gets hot (within5 minutes!) the lubricating properties have disappeared.
There are plenty of cheap/correct lubricants that are designed for high temperature and usually contain copper or some other metal in suspension with a high melting point lubricant. Halfords do a can that's made for the job.
As said before, operate the valve by hand form under the car and spray it liberally over a day or two and give it chance to soak in and work its' magic.
thanks for this information, its worth a try! Could you show me exactly where you mean to spray, is it the jutting pipes at the lower end of the exhuast in this picture? apologies for my fairly poor car knowledge.
And any specific spray you recommend which i can order to try this?
Mine is squeaking too so hoping someone can help
MY14 3.0S Convertible. Polaris White with black hood, Black pack, Design pack, 20" Cyclones, Red performance heated seats, heated flat bottom steering wheel, Meridian sound system, plus lots more
You are correct!ftype88 wrote: βTue Oct 02, 2018 5:21 pm
thanks for this information, its worth a try! Could you show me exactly where you mean to spray, is it the jutting pipes at the lower end of the exhuast in this picture? apologies for my fairly poor car knowledge.
And any specific spray you recommend which i can order to try this?
The butterfly (exhaust) valves are actuated each side independently by the small round cylindrical devices in the lower part of your picture.
These ''actuators'' act on a small linkage (usually a rod) that opens and closes a flap (aka Butterfly) in the incoming exhaust tube to the rear silencer.
The flaps are mounted on a shaft that protrude through the bottom and the top of the exhaust pipe, these are in effect the hinges (these small diameter rod hinges can be seen pointing in towards each other at the bottom of your picture) and on one side the actuator rod is connected to it. These are the bits that get stuck, and eventually seize on F-Types.
The trick is, if they have seized (you can check by actuating the rod and valve by hand) then several days of applying WD40, GT85 or thin spray penetrating oil at the ''hinges'' and NOT using the car usually frees them up.
Once they are free, follow up with a spray grease that is loaded with metal like this.....http://amzn.eu/d/dWVSAh7
The V8 is easier to see as the flaps are near the exhaust tail pipe where the gases exit...you can actually see the valves by looking into the rear pipes. The V6 of course as in your picture is before the rear box, and you can't unfortunately get a visual on those.
HTH
Tel
2016MY V8R IRR
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
Thats great thank you so much! Ordered the necessaries, now i'm going to get under there and try this next week - will report back!Tel wrote: βWed Oct 03, 2018 7:41 pm
The trick is, if they have seized (you can check by actuating the rod and valve by hand) then several days of applying WD40, GT85 or thin spray penetrating oil at the ''hinges'' and NOT using the car usually frees them up.
Once they are free, follow up with a spray grease that is loaded with metal like this.....http://amzn.eu/d/dWVSAh7
HTH
Tel
Welcome - Good luck!
2016MY V8R IRR
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
So 4000 miles and 4 months old, my right hand valve has started squeaking (V8). Blooming annoying isn't it! Anyway I've tried 3-in-1 Pro Anti-Seize Copper Grease, and WD-40 Specialist Dry Lubricant with PTFE. They work for a day or so, then it comes back again. Any ideas? Thanks