Anyone help with Battery Reconditioning

[Deleted User 1088]

Hello

This is what I do ... just put the F Type on charge a few mins ago, works for me and has been a total reliable solution for all our cars
Hope the pictures help .. sorry for any duplicate pictures as was in a rush .. I added the ammeter as wanted to know the current draw, after a full charge it then drops to a few milli amps (100Ma)
best regards

[scm]

I have been looking at the option of installing a CTEK panel type monitor as these are expensive batteries and worth looking after.
On looking in my boot well to locate the BUS bar I noticed I have a second smaller AGM battery on the right rear side of the well.

Has anyone had experience of this and will it affect charging via a CTEK charger?

Early cars had the second battery to power essential stuff during engine shut-off during stop/start. Later cars manage everything on a single battery. I assume (but am willing to be proved wrong) that charging the main battery will also supply power to the other one. AIUI, if the smaller one gets low, the stop/start won't work (which is a good thing, IMO!).

[ml276]

so battery was charged fully yday with ctek. blackvue parking mode has been off for a few weeks now. have only been on 3x 15min drives since using the ctek.

prior to charging was getting readings (via cig socket) with engine off of: 11.5v (after car stationery for 4 days), 12.3v after a few hrs drive, then 11.9v for next 48hrs post aforementionedvdrive. whilst driving though readings would go up to ~14.6v. stop/start was not working at the time.

after charging yday was expecting to see a reading of 12.6v with engine off. but only got 12.3v immediately after, 13.8v with engine on EVENTUALLY (really slowly crept up to this value during 15min drive). eco stop/start also started to work at some stage during the drive. then read 12.1v engine off, only 12.8v whilst driving back home, and 12.3v parked up for the night.

today has read 12v with engine off, 12.3v with engine on and evetually hitting 12.9v only during drive (whereas prior to charge this was reaching 14.6v). after drive it was resting at 12.4v, but checked few hrs later and back to 12v with engine off. start/stop did not kick in today, heating and all was off, but drive was limited to 15mins, not sure if related to this?

not sure whats going on. but ?new battery needed. sorry for the essay, tried to include as much info as poss

[Philskill]

Those voltages do sound low, especially if it's an AGM battery. The varied charging voltages maybe because the of the intelligent charging systems, but I've not monitored mine to see how this works.

The parasitic drain of the Blackvue in parking mode may have caused the problems you have now, as it's not what starting batteries are good at, that's why I quickly switched to using a celllink neo battery to run my camera. The camera gives off enough heat to keep snow and ice forming on that area of windscreen, so that shows how much energy it is dissipating.

I'd say you probably do need a new battery, as 11.5v is very discharged to have reached this in a few days.

Maybe you could try the recondition mode on the CTEK as a last resort, it might help remove the sulfate from the plates and recover the battery as it's not particularly old if an AGM.

[ml276]

Those voltages do sound low, especially if it's an AGM battery. The varied charging voltages maybe because the of the intelligent charging systems, but I've not monitored mine to see how this works.

The parasitic drain of the Blackvue in parking mode may have caused the problems you have now, as it's not what starting batteries are good at, that's why I quickly switched to using a celllink neo battery to run my camera. The camera gives off enough heat to keep snow and ice forming on that area of windscreen, so that shows how much energy it is dissipating.

I'd say you probably do need a new battery, as 11.5v is very discharged to have reached this in a few days.

Maybe you could try the recondition mode on the CTEK as a last resort, it might help remove the sulfate from the plates and recover the battery as it's not particularly old if an AGM.

yeah the parking mode i think caused this, as initially was set to infinity.

i did use the agm + recondition mode

so it hasnt been as low as 11.5v since the charge (only done 2 days ago), it seems to be at 12v with engine off

[Philskill]

Ok great, Well see how you get on now you've removed the offending drain from the camera, if the camera flattened the battery then the CTEK recon mode would be the best and probably only way to recover it.

[scm]

Sounds like you're starting from a good base now, anyway, see how it goes for the next few weeks before deciding to dump the battery.

[RPSN]

Something worth remembering about the CTEK battery charger.......

It will not initially work on a fully discharged battery.

You would need a normal car battery charger to put some charge into the battery which would be enough for the CTEK to sense it. You then remove the normal charger, connect the CTEK and it will do what it’s designed to do.

[cj10jeeper]

Your voltages confirm the battery is dead. 12v after an overnight stand following ctec charge shows it’s only 50% charge retained ...
By comparison I checked mine this morning before starting and after 10 days parked it read 12.6v
Driving to Jag meet was 14.6v all the way and after parking 12.6v after a few minutes to settle. Normal and in a 2 year old battery

Do your research on a new battery as you can be certain if you park and leave it for a few days such as an airport) you’ll likely be unable to start it