Chrome moulding lifting away from bodywork

Anything F-Type related......
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santoshlv426
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Post by santoshlv426 »

For sure. Once the epoxy I on you can't remove it.
But an option
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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Thanks for your replies.

I'll post an update once I've secured the chrome moulding to the bodywork.
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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Update:

I used the 3M VHB double sided grey tape but it wouldn't hold the chrome moulding in place which kept rising up after a few minutes (I ensured both surfaces were clean before applying the tape).

It takes a bit of pressure to hold the moulding down onto the solid plastic strip which is attached to the bodywork. This is probably because when I cleaned underneath the moulding I had to raise it up to gain access so it has slightly deformed.

I bought some CT1 sealant & contsruction adhesive (https://www.ct1.com/our-products/ct1/) which adheres to most materials and also seals underwater etc. I’ve applied this and removed any excess (sticky/messy job). I used duct tape along the top of the moulding and down onto the ‘B’ pillar to hold the moulding down whilst the adhesive sets (takes up to 72 hrs). I’ll wait a couple of days before removing the duct tape to see the results.

Out of curiosity, if I had used duct tape to hold the moulding down for approx 72 hrs when I initially applied the 3M VHB tape, do you think this would have done the job? The reason I ask is because although I had no paper instructions with the 3M VHB tape, I’ve found some online info about this tape which says.........

“Press firmly for about 20 minutes if possible. Pressure on the adhesive and the surface can help improve bond strength, roller or platen can be used. After application, the bond strength will increase as the adhesive flows onto the surface. At room temperature approximately 50% of ultimate bond strength will be achieved after 20 minutes, 90% after 24 hours and 100% after 72 hours.”
2016MY V6S Coupe RWD Auto 380PS Supercharged
Rhodium Silver
Panoramic Glass Roof
Sports Seats (heated) in Jet Leather
Seat Memory Pack 2 (14x14 way)
Powered Tailgate (open & close)
Reverse Park Camera with Guidance
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cj10jeeper
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Post by cj10jeeper »

I doubt it would have made any difference as it sounds like you deformed it and have increased the memory flex beyond the capability of the tape.

Take care or you’ll be on the slippy path to a new piece of trim

Hope adhesive type solution works
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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Ok thanks.

I’ve priced a new chrome moulding with Jaguar and it costs just under £600 without fitting!!!

I’m hoping that when I remove the duct tape after 72 hrs the CT1 sealant & adhesive (made by C-TEC) will have done the job properly. If not, I’ll have to remove the adhesive with C-TEC Multisolve (recommended to be used with all C-TEC adhesives and sealants).

The next step would be to take the car to my Jaguar main dealer as they have kindly offered to bond the moulding in place. If for some reason this still doesn’t work then I would have to use something like Araldite Rapid as it’s a strong 2-component epoxy with fast setting (parts are repositionable for 4 minutes).

1.jpg

2016MY V6S Coupe RWD Auto 380PS Supercharged
Rhodium Silver
Panoramic Glass Roof
Sports Seats (heated) in Jet Leather
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Powered Tailgate (open & close)
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scm
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Post by scm »

RPSN wrote: Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:19 pm I’ve priced a new chrome moulding with Jaguar and it costs just under £600 without fitting!!!
Are you sure they haven't quoted you for the gold one? :shock:
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cj10jeeper
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Post by cj10jeeper »

Hopefully what you have done will hold it
Can I suggest when removing the tape you pull it back on itself, not at 90 degrees, as the bond of that tape on your trim could easily overcome your latest adhesive and take to back to square 1. I know as I've done some great repairs in the house until the holding tape destroyed the product..

Agree with above comment on the price of a piece of trim - astounding. Guess they know it's only required for accident damage so can charge what they like
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Subtle enhancements to create the car I wanted from SVR nose cone, 400 series side skirts & customised 'design' rear bumper, to heated SVR steering wheel and more
chicb
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Post by chicb »

Just a thought for the holding pressure. If its in a garage, get a long piece if wood or plastic that jams against the roof & is long enough just to reach the moulding. Use whatever fixing you have decided on, then trap it with the wood. Jack the car gently up so that your moulding is firmly clamped, then leave it for as long as you like. Seems a bit daft but you will get a good holding force, far better than duct tape
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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Thanks for your replies.

I think they quoted me for the platinum moulding with studded diamonds! :shock:

When I remove the duct tape I will slowly start pulling it back on itself from the end nearest the rear of car and at the same angle as the chrome moulding, then down the 'B' pillar. This is to help ensure I don’t dislodge it from the adhesive.

I have a good sized driveway but no garage unfortunately. I tried to find a way to keep pressure on the top of the moulding and the best solution I came up with is to apply the duct tape as shown in the photo above. This wasn’t a bad idea as it’s firmly holding it down in place.

Only thing is, I daren’t risk driving the car until the 72 hrs are up as any vibration could dislodge things before the CT1 sealant & adhesive has fully cured.

Fingers crossed!
2016MY V6S Coupe RWD Auto 380PS Supercharged
Rhodium Silver
Panoramic Glass Roof
Sports Seats (heated) in Jet Leather
Seat Memory Pack 2 (14x14 way)
Powered Tailgate (open & close)
Reverse Park Camera with Guidance
Front Parking Aid
Sawadeeftype
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Post by Sawadeeftype »

Hi RPSN

Just checking if you had any success with this as yet? You may have seen my separate post (vandalised shiny bits) after some clown decided to bend my chrome trim to 90 degrees just for the fun of it. I have spent all week trying to get someone to repair it, including specialist chrome trim restorers and master paintless dent repair companies, but I've drawn a blank. So, I'm debating the glue or tape it down route as per your good self, not ideal but I can't face paying out so much money for a new trim. That said, I didn't appreciate the trim was one BIG piece which extends from door pillar around the rear quarter glass, along the roof and down to where the mirror is. There appears t be a join above the rear quarter light which I thought meant 2 pieces of trim...but apparently this is not the case (according to someone who is breaking an F type on the net).

Here's mine again...better image this time. I think I could 'potentially' live with this if it could be stuck down properly, so I'd be really interested to see if you achieved a good result in the end.

Many Thanks, Billy

trim 2.jpg

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