Jaguar F-Type differential failures - Input needed.

[Lunar]

Just watched the video - was expecting the sludge to be in the bottom of the oil or on the sump plug - that was more like someone's camper van holiday

[RPSN]

You don't need to drive far to warm the oil up enough to lower the viscosity - a 5 min gentle drive around the block is fine.

Once the oil has stopped dripping out it's worth using a gloved pinky to wipe around the inside of the drain hole too, as sludge has a tendency to sit there rather than drop over the edge. If your oil is not too hot you can then just wear nitrile gloves and get better access without the danger of being scalded. You could also stuff the end of a clean thin cloth in there and use a bent bit of mains cable to similar effect.

Be sure to catch the oil in a measuring jug to check that you've taken out the same amount you're about to put back in, within the stated tolerance.

It’s also worth checking the magnetic drain plug for any metallic particles etc before cleaning it and refitting.

In TheRock’s ‘Differential Oil Change’ document I posted earlier, he mentions that he used a compressor with a nozzle to blow air into the fill hole and found it effective to blow more oil out.

When the time comes for me to renew the diff oil, once I've drained it (without refitting the drain and refill plugs) I'll be removing the axle stands from the rear underside of the car and lowering it back to normal ground level for a few minutes to ensure all the oil has been drained into the container.

If the total amount of diff oil that drains out is more or less than the specified amount I would be ensuring that the correct amount is put back in (wet fill on the V6S is 0.815 - 0.835 Litres).

[daytona650]

That differential oil sludge is scary.

You've got to question the standard oil Jag put in at factory.

I wonder if the Motul I've now used in mine will be more resiliant anyway.

[Tel]

That differential oil sludge is scary.

You've got to question the standard oil Jag put in at factory.

I wonder if the Motul I've now used in mine will be more resiliant anyway.

Looking at the colour, that is friction plate lining material, not so metallic.

I just don't think that the JLR engineers realised how much 'crud' would potentially be produced by the clutch pack.

As I've said, regular changes will be key. 13-15K for mine. I wouldn't go over that for the price of the oil.

Shame though...having never had an e diff before, I kind of like not having to touch the old, standard type, well, maybe change the oil at 100K perhaps if I was feeling posh!

[rjmlondon]

I read one of the reasons for weeping pinion seal is a blocked air breather. Upon service worth a check.

[RPSN]

I read one of the reasons for weeping pinion seal is a blocked air breather. Upon service worth a check.

Explained here......viewtopic.php?f=27&t=5113&p=51484#p51484

This is a photo of the yellow cap on the rear differential vent/breather on my car.

[jagRoar]

It's such an inexpensive thing to change the oil its worth doing much more regularly than JLR advise. Sorry if this has been posted in here before but it's a good guide (apart from not using axel stands on the rear when working under the car) to show what a simple DIY task it is with only basic tools required. Torque wrench, fluid syringe, oil catch can and oil

[hamalmulhe]

Hi Tel,

Been trying to pm you, but im not authorized (new user), so i have to ask you in this reply lol.

Since you’re experienced with the v8 ftype. My f type has a vap tune + upper pulley, itg air induction, and 200cell downpipes. When i went to data log the car at 35 celsius ambient, my IAT went from 55celsius to 100celsius on a SINGLE PULL from 80-220kmh. My timing also pulled from 3 to 2.4. Since you live in UAE (close to where i live in saudi). Have you faced this issue?

[Tel]

Hi Tel,

Been trying to pm you, but im not authorized (new user), so i have to ask you in this reply lol.

Since you’re experienced with the v8 ftype. My f type has a vap tune + upper pulley, itg air induction, and 200cell downpipes. When i went to data log the car at 35 celsius ambient, my IAT went from 55celsius to 100celsius on a SINGLE PULL from 80-220kmh. My timing also pulled from 3 to 2.4. Since you live in UAE (close to where i live in saudi). Have you faced this issue?

Hi Hamul,

I don't want to go off topic, but in short, you can start a new thread in the technical forum.

Check the cold air feed is sufficiently clear and the intercooler is clean first.
If it is, then I would be talking to Stuart@VAP as the rise in IAT and timing change may indicate that the tables may possibly need modifying to take into account the higher Ambient temp.
The sharp rise is concerning and my suggestion would be not to run it hard at all or WOT until it's rectified.
BTW I'm not in UAE, I was working there for a while and ran the Jag F-type V6S around Yas Marina, however, I'm back in cold England now!

[Frottles]

My 17 plate AWD V6S Coupe with only 15k miles needs a new rear diff!! I bought it ‘Used Approved’ from a Main Dealer very recently, but I cannot understand what on earth has happened to the car to warrant the failure.
My symptoms were the mild rubbing noise during turns, especially at low speeds when there’s less external noise to hide it.
The technician noted darker diff oil (from overheating) after I highlighted the noise.
How does an otherwise clean and unmarked car with 15k miles become Used Approved with that problem?
I haven’t read all of the 15 pages in this thread however, was there any outcome with JLR as the more I read, the more common this seems?
Do JLR accept a design fault?