Jaguar F-Type differential failures - Input needed.

Anything F-Type related......
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gkeevash
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Post by gkeevash »

To the best of my knowledge they replaced the diff on both occasions, I saw the paperwork around £1800. I was advised that the dealers don’t repair the diffs as they are sealed reconditioned sealed units - hope that helps
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Gazza
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scm
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Post by scm »

I wasn't doubting they replaced the diffs, just wondered if that was the root cause of the problem each time, or maybe something else was wrong that was destroying the diffs.
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gkeevash
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Post by gkeevash »

After the initial replacement the noise was still there, after the second replaced it noise was gone and hasn’t returned. I can’t comment on whether the root cause was anything other than the diff
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Gazza
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Post by JurassicF »

Dealers do (TRY) to replace seals which when leaking are the main cause for failure. Mainly unsuccessful which ends up in them replacing the whole diff. Maybe that was the process on yours?
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gkeevash
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Post by gkeevash »

I didn’t experience any leaks on either diff just noise when turning right at between 3 and 10mph.
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Gazza
2018MY, F-Type 400 Sport Convertible RWD, Black
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2006 XK 4.2
2001 Nissan Skyline R33 Twin Turbo
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JurassicF
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Post by JurassicF »

The leaks are not neccessarily noticeable until inspected, after issues reported, but already caused damage.
Then dealers go down the seal replacement and oil change then diff change.
Maybe not your situation but one that happens.
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JFA
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Post by JFA »

Thought I'd post into this thread in case similar is missed in another one, but happy to contribute my experience to the mix for Tel to work his magic! Had minor oil seeping from the rear diff on my 2016 SVR (44,000 miles). This was fixed under warranty in the summer and all OK until recently when 'whurring' noise began from rear. Sent into Harwoods Basingstoke and they have just reported the following:

"Carried out investigation into Nosie from vehicle. Tested and confirmed the noise to be coming from the rear differential. Inspected rear diff and found no oil leaks from the pinion seal. Removed the Diff drain plug. confirmed oil within the diff. Checked the condition of the oil and found it to be very metallic and several metal chunks within the oil. Internal diff failure. Requires a replacement rear differential. 51.25.13.29 Final Drive Unit - Renew"

Warranty job, thankfully. Hope this helps - let me know if you want me to ask for any more details - I don't really know what a Diff does, so will need to be told exactly what to ask! (Sorry, I just love driving the car)
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Tel
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Post by Tel »

V6S - Watch @ 5:00

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RPSN
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Post by RPSN »

Tel wrote: Sun Feb 28, 2021 7:54 pm V6S - Watch @ 5:00

The differential sludge (should be oil) being drained from that V6S is really bad.......no wonder some diffs fail!

I noted that the guy in the video said the previous owner of the car had never changed the diff oil.

Mine should be ok for now as it was changed by my Jag main dealer along with the pinion seal in January last year and I’ve only done 2,600 miles since.

When I do engine oil changes on my other car, I sometimes add engine oil flush to the old oil before starting the engine and bringing it up to normal operating temp. This helps to remove the crud that has built up and thins the oil for better draining.

When it comes to renewing the diff oil on the F-Type, it’s been said that it's a good idea to drive the car first to warm up the oil, which will provide better draining. If there was a lot of sludge found upon draining, you could drain and refill with new oil, then leave it to circulate around the diff components for a few hundred miles before repeating the process.

Are there any other recommendations to help ensure all the oil (or in some cases sludge) is drained?

I’ll be using something like women’s nylon tights placed over the container for catching the old oil, to see if there are any metallic particles etc in it which would indicate wear to the diff (hopefully there won't be any).

Seen a few good write-ups on the diff oil change on this forum and here's another from ‘TheRock’......
Differential Oil Change.pdf
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Lunar
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Post by Lunar »

You don't need to drive far to warm the oil up enough to lower the viscosity - a 5 min gentle drive around the block is fine.

Once the oil has stopped dripping out it's worth using a gloved pinky to wipe around the inside of the drain hole too, as sludge has a tendency to sit there rather than drop over the edge. If your oil is not too hot you can then just wear nitrile gloves and get better access without the danger of being scalded. You could also stuff the end of a clean thin cloth in there and use a bent bit of mains cable to similar effect.

Be sure to catch the oil in a measuring jug to check that you've taken out the same amount you're about to put back in, within the stated tolerance.
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