You're probably right as I would usually do what you suggest to dry out the car.cj10jeeper wrote: ↑Sun May 22, 2022 10:26 amI don't have that same concern on a modern engine. To me this is a carry over to the old days. Far less fuel dumped into the system than old carbs. stainless exhausts, etc.alistair64 wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 8:11 pmYeah, think I'll be looking to invest in a cover at some stage.cj10jeeper wrote: ↑Sat May 21, 2022 10:51 am Looks like your test has shown how it can be done and clearly not something to do on a regular basis. Personally I'd just start the engine and drive it out, noting that cars almost always have start stop which activates dozens of time on even a short drive, so it's not going to kill it to start it weekly and drive out. If you plan to garage for long periods drop the wheels onto dolly and push it around of put a car cover on so you don't need to keep washing it..
The thing about the stop/start is that it's ok with a warm engine, but if I'm pushing the car out of the garage, the engine will be cold.
Not good as condensation does not get a chance to evaporate and gases produced from a cold engine will contain water vapour which can, over time, cause corrosion within an engine.
If you combine with GusA's suggestion of driving to dry out brakes, etc. then you have a warm engine, then it makes far more sense than disengaging the drive train, pushing out, washing and pushing a wet car back in the garage. Of course it's your call and yuo have a workable and tested solution now
It's just that yesterday, when I washed the car, I knew I wouldn't be going out in her for various reasons, so it's best to have the option.
However, I take your point and feel I should always drive the car after washing, so the 'disengage park' lever should on;ly be used on rare occasions.