Hello all!
Newbie here! I've seen there have been a few posts about exhaust valves but they don't quite seem relevant to thought I'd start a new thread!
I have a 2014 F-Type S with the active exhaust (whilst it does not have the exhaust button it does have the active exhaust with vacuum operated valves).
I have taken the active exhaust fuse out to try to enable loud mode all the time (hoonigan at heart), but it still really does seem quiet (very little difference between fuse in and out). I'm assuming those with a button notice a audible difference with it 'on' or 'off' at idle (with mine there seems to be no difference at idle at all when I remove or replace the fuse)
The car still has warranty (not with Jaguar) but the garage is 300 miles away and my local Jag dealership seemingly wont give anything away without bringing it into the for inspection where they will end up charging me £150 to look at the problem.
I'm wondering if others have had this and there is an easy way to try and free off the valves without removing the exhaust?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Exhaust valves stuck closed
It does sound stuck then - if you take the fuse out you'd definitely notice a change - even if not sure at idle, then when you pull away.
You can get to the actuators with the car on the ground - this is good because you'd need wide ramps to back it on to - and please do not get under it with a jack "just for a few seconds" - I had a 1 tonne Halfords jack buckle on me when I jacked the back end up - go figure on 1/4 of the car's total weight, even with 50/50 front-rear balance!
I'd suggest some penetrating oil and then gentle tap on the actuator rod - alternatively if you can get some wide grips or a soft jaw clamp around it and gently tighten to break the seized status.
If you're lucky then be sure to try and clean the actuator with some fine emery and then a liberal spray of brake dust remover - let it dry off then spray with some anti-seize copper spray.
If you're unlucky and damage the actuator then you might as well go all out on it and can then wire it permanently open anyway!
You can get to the actuators with the car on the ground - this is good because you'd need wide ramps to back it on to - and please do not get under it with a jack "just for a few seconds" - I had a 1 tonne Halfords jack buckle on me when I jacked the back end up - go figure on 1/4 of the car's total weight, even with 50/50 front-rear balance!
I'd suggest some penetrating oil and then gentle tap on the actuator rod - alternatively if you can get some wide grips or a soft jaw clamp around it and gently tighten to break the seized status.
If you're lucky then be sure to try and clean the actuator with some fine emery and then a liberal spray of brake dust remover - let it dry off then spray with some anti-seize copper spray.
If you're unlucky and damage the actuator then you might as well go all out on it and can then wire it permanently open anyway!
MY14 "S" badged V6 Convertible in Lunar Grey metallic
Performance seats, Meridian, heated flat bottom wheel with aluminium paddles, heated front screen, cruise, dual zone climate, switchable active exhaust
Performance seats, Meridian, heated flat bottom wheel with aluminium paddles, heated front screen, cruise, dual zone climate, switchable active exhaust
The way I understand it the valves are “open” when there is no vacuum,
i.e. as you start the engine it will be loud then go quiet as soon as vacuum closes the valves
(Unless you have a button and switch to loud) therefore if your valves are seized I’d be very surprised if they are seized “closed” ? That’s perhaps why there’s no change it’s already loud.
I always thought if you had active you had a button anyway?
That’s my 2 penneth worth. Hope it helps or someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly?
i.e. as you start the engine it will be loud then go quiet as soon as vacuum closes the valves
(Unless you have a button and switch to loud) therefore if your valves are seized I’d be very surprised if they are seized “closed” ? That’s perhaps why there’s no change it’s already loud.
I always thought if you had active you had a button anyway?
That’s my 2 penneth worth. Hope it helps or someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly?
2014 V6s Roadster
Polaris White /Red Interior/Black Roof
20" Carbon Blades
Black Pack, + Every Option
Full REMUS Cat back system
Polaris White /Red Interior/Black Roof
20" Carbon Blades
Black Pack, + Every Option
Full REMUS Cat back system
Agreed. The default position is held open with a spring. As a first check you should be able to reach under the car from the side and operate the lever by hand to see if they move. As the previous poster said I would be surprised if they could fail closed and as they are independent both to get stuck closed is even less likely.
Unfortunately the valves are an integral part of the rear box assembly and a new box from jaguar is about £1500 so definitely worth doing some investigation yourself.
I’m assuming you have v6? Pic of v8 and v6 so you can see location of valves
Might also be worth searching the forum for other threads
Kev
Unfortunately the valves are an integral part of the rear box assembly and a new box from jaguar is about £1500 so definitely worth doing some investigation yourself.
I’m assuming you have v6? Pic of v8 and v6 so you can see location of valves
Might also be worth searching the forum for other threads
Kev
Storm Grey V6 coupe 2016MY
Tel's comments on this one regarding lubricating the springs etc might be helpful.
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2799
viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2799
Hey KevKdes wrote: ↑Sat Nov 10, 2018 8:49 am Agreed. The default position is held open with a spring. As a first check you should be able to reach under the car from the side and operate the lever by hand to see if they move. As the previous poster said I would be surprised if they could fail closed and as they are independent both to get stuck closed is even less likely.
Unfortunately the valves are an integral part of the rear box assembly and a new box from jaguar is about £1500 so definitely worth doing some investigation yourself.
I’m assuming you have v6? Pic of v8 and v6 so you can see location of valves
Might also be worth searching the forum for other threads
Kev
I think I have this same issue with my 2018 F-type V6. Trying to figure out how to just force the valve open -- loud is just better for me. Can I do that myself -- meaning, using the drawings/pics you attached to your post, where is the valve in that pic and how do I force it open?
One other thing - with the button I don’t think there’s a significant difference at idle when on or off. On my car;
Button off - Exhaust opens about 3500 rpm
Button on - Exhaust opens about 1500 rpm
Dynamic mode - Exhaust always open.
Can you notice a difference if you toggle between dynamic on and off?
Button off - Exhaust opens about 3500 rpm
Button on - Exhaust opens about 1500 rpm
Dynamic mode - Exhaust always open.
Can you notice a difference if you toggle between dynamic on and off?
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- Location: Nottingham UK
Best way to check valve operation is from cold start. Initial start should be loud, couple of seconds, followed by noticeable decrease in volume as valves close. Few seconds later press ‘loud’ button & should be noticeable deeper/louder tone.
Faulty valves will hear a metallic scraping noise after the initial start up as valves try to close. There will be other, or no, symptoms if they are completed seized.
Happened to me so new back box
Faulty valves will hear a metallic scraping noise after the initial start up as valves try to close. There will be other, or no, symptoms if they are completed seized.
Happened to me so new back box
White 2014 V6 Coupe
OEM P7 Grill
VAP Lowering Springs
VAP 200 Cell Cats & Downpipes
VAP Pulley & Stage II 453 BHP Remap
Vorsteiner 21” V-FF 103 Alloys
PB Brakes 8/6 Pot Drilled Big Brake Kit
OEM P7 Grill
VAP Lowering Springs
VAP 200 Cell Cats & Downpipes
VAP Pulley & Stage II 453 BHP Remap
Vorsteiner 21” V-FF 103 Alloys
PB Brakes 8/6 Pot Drilled Big Brake Kit
Behaviour, as noted in many previous posts, depends on the MY. In my MY18 the loud start certainly doesn't diminish after "couple of seconds" - it takes around a minute for mine to quieten down from cold. Also, pressing the active exhaust button doesn't give a noticeable deeperr/louder tone - that doesn't happen until about 1500 rpm. Switching to dynamic does produce that effect, though.DaddyDarren wrote: ↑Sun Aug 29, 2021 9:39 am Best way to check valve operation is from cold start. Initial start should be loud, couple of seconds, followed by noticeable decrease in volume as valves close. Few seconds later press ‘loud’ button & should be noticeable deeper/louder tone.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
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