As I've mentioned before, it's a common connection, so the busbar is at exactly the same potential as the pos pole on the battery, so it matters not.
JLR's procedure calls for external connections to be made to the busbar.
My only thoughts on this are for tidyness possibly.
The designs are changing as my busbar has about nine or so connections to it.
What’s the approved method of battery trickle charging.
2016MY V8R IRR
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
I have used the motorcycle OPTIMATE chargers for many years. Have one on the bike. But had one on a 911 for over 6 years & on my Skyline GTR for 7 years. Hardly used those cars & the batteries were always fully charged. They are not a charger as such only a optimiser. Also I have always connected them directly to the battery. Some say do not connect directly to the battery negative as it will give false information to the Alternator. That is not strictly true as when you have the optimiser on you are not using the car, hence the alternator is doing nothing. When you run the car then disconnect the optimiser before doing so.
2017 f type 5.0 R AWD Glacier Pearl white Cabriolet
Sports seats 14way. Powerfold mirrors, Keyless. Hp Brakes, Split rims,
Heated screen. Meridian 380w.
Sports seats 14way. Powerfold mirrors, Keyless. Hp Brakes, Split rims,
Heated screen. Meridian 380w.
I've never heard of that before?steviegtr wrote: ↑Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:23 pm Some say do not connect directly to the battery negative as it will give false information to the Alternator. That is not strictly true as when you have the optimiser on you are not using the car, hence the alternator is doing nothing. When you run the car then disconnect the optimiser before doing so.
The alternator is not intelligent, however the BMS and its components are on the F type, they are what control the generated output both V and A when the engine is running.
They are that sensitive to external change for example, when you swap for another, newer battery, the BMS system requires hooking up to SDD to be reset!
Like you I have the my bikes on Optimates, the very first design that was clunky and brick like, but it still works all these years later.
2016MY V8R IRR
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
ITG Maxogen Cold air intake kit
Billet OBD lock
Forged lightweight Blades
Full custom Xpel Ultimate PPF wrap
Piano Black badges
17mm MST Hubcentrics
Smarttop remote
Black exhaust tips
Porterfield RS-4 Carbon Kevlar pads
Mich PS4S's
+ more
Until yesterday I've always attached my CTEK as the pic below, which I found on here previously. When I put it on yesterday the power light on the CTEK kept flashing and wouldn't work right. Anyone offer a suggestion as to why? I've ended up putting it directly to the battery and it appears OK.
I am about to fit a Ctec charger to my 2016 coupe.
The "How to" article suggests that I disconnect the negative battery cable before starting installation.
I am sure that will lose ALL settings etc., on the Car. Is there any reason that the Negative Cable HAS to be disconnected BEFORE installing?
The "How to" article suggests that I disconnect the negative battery cable before starting installation.
I am sure that will lose ALL settings etc., on the Car. Is there any reason that the Negative Cable HAS to be disconnected BEFORE installing?
Thank you SCM.
I was going to connect as per Chipper3 (Monday 28th October) but now concerned by all the previous posts that this may not be the best - anyone with electronic experience /advice.
I am going to use the CTec extension socket so that I can easily unplug the unit, so presumably, as there will be no power to the extension there should be nothing to make it spark.
I was going to connect as per Chipper3 (Monday 28th October) but now concerned by all the previous posts that this may not be the best - anyone with electronic experience /advice.
I am going to use the CTec extension socket so that I can easily unplug the unit, so presumably, as there will be no power to the extension there should be nothing to make it spark.
Correct, the only spark risk is when the extension socket is connected to the car in the first place.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
I'm another one with an Optimate 4 battery conditioner I use on my m/c. Now the Jag isn't being used, I want to connect the Optimate, temporarily from time to time with crock clips. As I have two batteries with stop start, what's the best way? A few days on each? Or is there a better way to do both together? Clarity on where to connect also appreciated, so far I think pos on the battery and neg to chassis?
F-Type R Coupe Firenze (Italian Racing Red) AWD MY16
I'd think that'd be okay. I don't have the two battery system but I'd assume that the charging circuit would do both batteries at the same time.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
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