Battery issue

Technical Advice, Faults and How-To Information.
ninetails
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Post by ninetails »

GusA wrote: Tue Feb 09, 2021 5:21 pm Sounds like a common issue after use of the OBD port in that the electrics won’t shut down. Solution is to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and reconnect, then charge it up again.

You can check by locking the car and then seeing if the hazard warning triangle light goes out after a few minutes or stays on.
+3 I have had this problem after service and MOT (using main JAG/LR dealer), quite common fault, although it shouldn't be. If the OBD session is not ended correctly, before unplugging, it leaves the electrical system "hung up" in service mode and system will not shut down. I disconnected the large negative wire (from battery) where it bolts to the boot floor and reconnected after approx 30 minutes. Cured the problem. Note--- make sure the door has been unlocked (alarm now disarmed) and opened and shut again (to prevent it from self locking) as this prevents the alarm going off when you disconnect the negative wire. Also do not shut the boot while battery is disconnected, as you will not be able to open it again (no power for "open" boot button). You will need to reset the electric windows (auto function) and the time clock.
EDIT---My battery was not completely flat, just "low battery" warning (i caught it in time). If yours is completely flat, you will have to recharge it from the "jump start" posts under the bonnet, enough to be able to open the boot to get at the battery, then disconnect it and fully recharge with a charger/maintainer that is suitable for AGM Batteries. Or just jump start the car and take it for a run to recharge the battery and then do disconnect/reconnect procedure.
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Derivative
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Post by Derivative »

Kwik-Fit and National Tyres will do you a free battery check. They typically use something like a Bosch BAT 131 battery tester rather than just a multimeter that'll only tell you you've got 12+V.

I had a similar battery warning message to others' as described. Mine was due to the car getting stuck at the dealers for nearly six months due to Covid related problems of shutdown/unable to get spares from China/etc. Didn't do it any good being left that long without a good run.

According to the tester readout the battery was 'good' but just needed 'charging'. 24 hours on a plug in battery charger and no problems since.
MY2018 R-Dynamic 340 coupe
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scm
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Post by scm »

I've had mixed results from "battery health checks". In a previous XKR I was experiencing weird issues and decided the battery was ready for a change. I went to a local battery place to get a replacement and the guy there insisted on checking my battery. He pronounced it healthy and wouldn't sell me a new one! I went home and bought one online, lower price, next day delivery and once fitted the car's issues were resolved. On an unrelated note, I've just replaced the battery in my backup (and mostly unused) Almera, when I realised its battery was fitted in 2008 - batteries just aren't made to last these days .... :lol:
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
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Phippy
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Joined: Fri Nov 19, 2021 9:58 pm

Post by Phippy »

My battery is dead and I cannot get in to the car. The “manual” key will not turn the lock. I have tried it each way round, I have WD40’d the lock but still no joy. Getting desperate and might have to break in but there must be a cheaper way.

Any suggestions
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scm
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Post by scm »

Have you tried the keys from both fobs? I've read that there are power terminals accessible under the car's boot/trunk area so you could connect anothe battery if you have one, maybe a web search will throw up something. BTW, it'd help if you gave some car details, MY, etc., so any help can be relevant to your model year.

And welcome to the forum, I'm sorry it was a problem that brought you here.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
cj10jeeper
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Post by cj10jeeper »

Phippy wrote: Fri Nov 19, 2021 10:09 pm My battery is dead and I cannot get in to the car. The “manual” key will not turn the lock. I have tried it each way round, I have WD40’d the lock but still no joy. Getting desperate and might have to break in but there must be a cheaper way.

Any suggestions
Your manual key will open the door. They are both fiddly and stiff. On the one time I used it I needed pliers to put some gentle turning to it. Be careful though…
Failing that call your breakdown service who will open it without damage ti locks or glass

Btw WD40 is not a lubricant and will gum up the lock as it dries out. Use some oil when you have time.
2014 MY 3.0 V6S Roadster
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scm
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Post by scm »

The thing I didn't realise when i used my key is that turning the key to the front of the car unlocks it but you still have to pull the handle to get the door open. I was expecting the key to perform the open. Once you're in the car you can pop the bonnet and connect power to the underbonnet terminals that should enable you to open the boot.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
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Philskill
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Post by Philskill »

Note: Oil is not good for locks either, it attracts dust and scum and also dries out and gums up, you should use a dry lubricant like graphite powder.
MY19 Carpathian Grey R-Dynamic P300, Black pack in and out, 12 way Memory seats, Climate Pack, Park assist, Meridian Surround, switchable exhaust.
Firesand
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Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2016 6:35 am

Post by Firesand »

Firstly I want to thank all the posts on a dead battery after a service and MOT... there are many and unfortunately not under the same main header titles.
My tail to tell;
I took the car in for it's 5 year service at Chester Inchape JLR delarship, where after I parked up the car in my garage following a 12 mile drive back home.
After 3 days standing with no charger connected I tried to enter the car to find I could not. Changing the key fob battery did not cure this, so I assumed something more sinister.
I referred to this forum where I found information and advice.

Opened the drivers door with the old fashioned key which is inside to fob (not an easy task especially trying to protect the paint work) to allow access to open to bonnet, which gains access to the jump terminals.
Again I refered to forum posts to locate these jump terminals.
Placing a battery charger on these trrminals did not provide enough power for me to open the boot (tail gate) to allow connection for a battery charger to the main battery.
Connected jump leads from the jump terminals to another running vehicle's battery.
Lots of flashing and warning lights along with the alarm reverberating around the neighborhood, but managed to start the engine.
10 min drive and then I mustard the courage to open the boot. BTW. The boot can only be open with power, no manual entry??
Disconnected the battery, positive and negative for 1 hour.
Reconnected battey terminals and placed the battery on the Ctech charger until displayed fully charged. This took a long time.
All good now, as opened and started the car after being stationary without Ctech charger connected for over a week... A 5 year old battery!!!
Called Chester JLR service to notify of the problem I encountered and complained that this issue of unpluging the OBD incorrectly resulted in this issue. Needles to say their responce was negative and "don't believe everything you read on forums"!!!
Well tanks to the knowledge and constructive advice of this F-Type forum, I fixed the fault and saved many ££££.
I can only imagine if I took the car back to JLR they would have stating a 5 year battery was to blame and not there 'experiened technicians'!
BTW. I have kept my battery on a C tec charger since new.. still ok.
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scm
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Post by scm »

As you've discovered, CTEKs aren't good to use in this circumstance since (IME) it doesn't deliver any volts if it hasn't got at least a slightly charged battery to start with. As you found, another battery does the trick!

BTW, there is manual opening of the boot, but only from the inside (dayglo handle behind the number plate)!

Also, did you spot that you can check for the drain condition by checking the light in the hazard switch - it should go our about 10 minutes after locking the car.
MY18 F-Type V8 R AWD in Glacier White
Lots of leather and toys, and loads of noise!
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