Geometry

Technical Advice, Faults and How-To Information.
steveo35
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Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2014 4:46 pm

Post by steveo35 »

Hi no its a RWD. Not sure what difference that makes. It says on the sheet the setting were for thr 2013-2015 ftype which is RWD so im assuming they are using the corrects settings.

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Dan_Veluwe
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Post by Dan_Veluwe »

I enlarged your images to see the explainations next to it :

track text.jpg


For the theory behind it :
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steveo35
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Post by steveo35 »

Looks like some bed time reading. I really need to gen up on this so I can underatand what they are on about and also when its not correct I have more of a chance to explain whats wrong. It dosnt look like they have altered much but its made a bit difference. Some ways it feels better and other ways it just feela very odd
mickjaguar
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Post by mickjaguar »

I dug out the Hunter report for mine. The settings are very similar to your page, with the only exception being that my cambers are set more evenly at -0.51 and -0.54 for the front and -1.41 and -1.36 at the rear. I went from negative front toe (Total -0.09) to positive toe (+0.17) which has made the steering a bit less twitchy and hopefully cured the uneven tyre wear.
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cj10jeeper
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Post by cj10jeeper »

I’ve had Hunter done on many cars and the key is to have the car correctly weighted and fuelled.

I cannot recall the requirement for the FType, but my Z4 for instance required a full tank of fuel, 50kg in each seat and some more in the boot.

Without weight the readings are correct, but settings are way off for real conditions

I’d do 3 things:
Book in and ask if they can check the settings which they will do for free, ask if your model needed any fuel/load requirements and tell them your concerns which they can dial out
2014 MY 3.0 V6S Roadster
Subtle enhancements to create the car I wanted from SVR nose cone, 400 series side skirts & customised 'design' rear bumper, to heated SVR steering wheel and more
steveo35
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Post by steveo35 »

Hi. Thanks for the input. Its back tommorow for a check so I will put full tank fuel in the car 1st. Also im having all the Pirelli tyres replaces with mich ps4s so it needs to be correct as I dont want them to be shot after a few miles.

My main concern is the wheel not being striaght which is just wierd. Holding the wheel of centre when going stright is not something im used to. Also when cornering it just feels too sensitive.
gasgas
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Post by gasgas »

has the car been in a big bump and not repaired correctly?
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Dan_Veluwe
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Post by Dan_Veluwe »

steveo35 wrote: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:01 pm My main concern is the wheel not being striaght which is just wierd. Holding the wheel of centre when going stright is not something im used to.
If you read the setting. the car should go straight with the wheel centered. It may well be your thread is worn unevenly, resulting the car to pull to one side. Also a bulged road [ centre line higher level then sides] gives this effect. Try to find a perfectly flat parking space or something and go there after hours. Drive straight at 30mph on a perfectly flat serface. The car should go straight if the steering wheel is centered. Remember if you have to steer to left or right to correct. Then do the same [ preferably same stretch ] and when you correct to go strait, hold the wheel with one hand between thumb and middle finger , feel if it judders. If it does, its the tire thats shot.

If this all gives no result, ask them to check for excessive play in balljoints or steering joints . If you hit a curb, a steering element could be twisted pulling the car to one side even if everything is set straight and there is no free play anywhere ! This is very difficult to source...

straigft.jpg

Range Rover P400e autobiography Loire Blue (2019) :P
Mazda__MX30_RED___2021_ BEV
FT jag _P300 _Ultra Bleu, 2018 ___________SOLD :(
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scm
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Post by scm »

steveo35 wrote: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:01 pm My main concern is the wheel not being straight which is just weird. Holding the wheel off centre when going straight is not something I'm used to.
On my previous 2010 XKR it developed a wiring fault that required the back axle to be dropped for the necessary access. I managed to persuade them to do it under warranty! However, when I got the car back I too had the (very) off-centre steering wheel when going straight. I took it to a local man who found the back was way out of adjustment which made the car "crab". Once fixed everything was fine, but I do worry about main dealers. The guy who drove it back to me must have noticed it was wrong, but said nothing. Hopeless.

Hope you get yours sorted out!
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cj10jeeper
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Post by cj10jeeper »

steveo35 wrote: Mon Aug 13, 2018 10:01 pm Hi. Thanks for the input. Its back tommorow for a check so I will put full tank fuel in the car 1st. Also im having all the Pirelli tyres replaces with mich ps4s so it needs to be correct as I dont want them to be shot after a few miles.

My main concern is the wheel not being striaght which is just wierd. Holding the wheel of centre when going stright is not something im used to. Also when cornering it just feels too sensitive.
Clearly something is wrong. The good news is generally the Hunter guys are really great. My buddy owns one and does all my cars and they know their job.
Just explain the concerns, keep the old tyres on as they prefer to see the wear and see what they come up with
2014 MY 3.0 V6S Roadster
Subtle enhancements to create the car I wanted from SVR nose cone, 400 series side skirts & customised 'design' rear bumper, to heated SVR steering wheel and more
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