Stripped Wheel Nut - Replacement recommendation

[adrianw65]

So my car is with a detailer and he email me this

"I prepped the car on Saturday, when removing the wheels deep clean them and the arches I found one of the wheel bolts has been cross threaded. It was incredibly difficult to remove and was tight the entire way down the thread. The wheel nuts themselves had all been massively over torqued and far too tight so we’re not easy to get undone to begin with"

Has anyone replaced their rust nuts ?

[Philskill]

Thats not ideal!

But it's normally Caliper off, Disc Off, Use a stud remover ideally, you can hammer out the studs but be careful you can do more damage than good, new studs in and tighten them back into position using a spacer block.

[Tel]

I'd be inclined to chase a die up the stud and buy a new nut...if that is in fact the stud in question that looks OK?

They are a fiver a piece.

[adrianw65]

Thanks for the replies, i found this on another site, so will check the stud when i visit the detailer , looks like possible alternative option


AutoZephyr , 09-28-2021 09:53 PM
Junior Member
2017 Jaguar F-Type S RWD British Design Edition
I had a tire company break the connector on my driver rear electronic parking brake and way overtorque all of the lugnuts on my wheels. I ended up busting the chrome caps off of two of the lugnuts, shearing the hex profile on the nuts underneath, and chewing through the rounded off nuts with nut removal sockets. My 700 ft-lb rated mid-torque milwaukee impact wrench was unsuccessful in shaking them loose at all. The heads both sheared flush to the base leaving me no option other than to drill out the stud with progressively larger drill bits: 1/8" to 1/2" at 1/8" intervals. Once I was able to remove the wheel I removed the brake caliper and caliper mounting bracket. I used a 6lb rubber deadblow hammer with moderate repeated impacts to shake the rotor loose from the wheel hub.
Two of the four wheel hub bolts were heavily seized. Due to the limited space to access the rear of the bolts, neither an impact or breaker bar could be used to help loosen the bolts. A map gas torch was used to heat the female thread locations on the front side of the wheel hub to expand the threads enough to allow me to back these bolts out. After doing this I realized that it was possible that heating this location could have led to heat soak through damage to the magnetic wheel speed sensor mounted on the upright behind and above the wheel hub. If I was to do this again, I would first look into the operation of this sensor and clarify that it doesn't require re-calibration or precise repositioning after removal then actually remove it to avoid possibly damaging it with applied heat. Once I had the wheel hub off I was able to punch out the shortened studs with a hammer and punch.
I discovered that the likely reason jaguar says the wheel studs are not serviceable is because a full length stud can neither be removed or installed without modifying the stud. The stud head bumps into the large assembly press fit onto the rear of the hub. Since the damaged studs were shortened by the drilling I did to remove the wheel nuts, I was able to remove them from what I will call the exterior stud ring with a hammer and punch. I measured the removed studs and the remaining intact studs and determined the critical dimensions needed for a replacement stud. As jaguar does not provide the studs, I decided to search for a suitable replacement instead of paying $450 for a new hub assembly. As Dorman seemed to be the OEM supplier of the wheel nuts, I assumed they would have a selection of suitable studs that these nuts fit on. The part number of the replacement studs I used was Dorman 610-543. The knurl OD of this stud is roughly 0.10mm larger than the studs I removed. I tried a different PN first, Dorman 610-470 that had a knurl OD roughly 0.50mm larger than the ones removed. This stud was impossible to seat and I ended up breaking my vice trying to use it as a press. Don't do that... I wanted the knurl on the replacement studs to be slightly larger than the ones I removed as I could see within the recieving holes that the process of initially setting these studs slightly deforms the hole and likely slightly deforms the stud. So using a slightly larger stud ensures a tight fit on the replacement after having removed the old studs. The 610-543 studs have a very slightly different geometry after the knurling than the OEM studs, the shank OD after the knurling is slightly less than the knurling OD while the OEM bolt maintains a constant OD from the knurling along the shank of the bolt. The length of the 610-543 stud is roughly 1-2mm longer than the OEM once fully installed but that difference is negligible and does not limit full engagement of the OEM wheel nuts. The 610-543 studs can not be installed into the exterior stud ring without modification, the large assembly mounted to the hub gets in the way. The solution I came up with was to flatten a portion of the circular head of the stud by cutting a straight line through one side of the head. This allowed enough clearance for the head of the stud to get past the assembly casing and slide into the hole. Once seated into the hole, it is a simple matter to punch the stud into place with a hammer and punch or to pull the stud through using a wheel nut, washer and impact wrench on the other side of the stud. These replacement studs have been on my car for a good 5,000 miles and I have not noticed any vibration or unusual behavior, and I don't expect I will. They actually look nicer than the OEM studs, they're grade 8 zinc plated bolts and I actually expect them to hold up better than the studs the car comes with stock.
Apologies for the lengthy post, but this is the kind of post I really wish I would have found when looking for this topic.

[Deleted User 3656]

I had the same thing happen on the front looked on line for a new hub not to bad of a job to replace for my garage (not main dealer) from memory part was about £100.00 ? and 1 hr in workshop

[cj10jeeper]

I'd be inclined to chase a die up the stud and buy a new nut...if that is in fact the stud in question that looks OK?

They are a fiver a piece.

This is the way I'd go for the sake buying a die and cleaning up the thread to save a lot of hassle of swapping out hub of a stud.
The lugs are sacrificial with the studs being much harder, so the stud should be in good condition with just remains of the lug smeared into its threads

[adrianw65]

So sometimes things just work
Stud die worked
Caliper stickers stuck
Wing mirror came off with ease for indicator upgrade
Ceramic coat looks good
= happy old git

[TopCat]

That was a good outcome, must have been a great sense of relief when the stud die worked.

Where did you get the replacement nuts from? I’ve just replaced the locking wheel nuts and I’m now looking to replace the standard nuts.

[cj10jeeper]

Glad it all worked out well, especially the wheel stud. Saved a lot of time and effort, plus a few £’s

Bit of a sneaky drinks cabinet in the garage

[adrianw65]

Hey, i brought my replacement wheel nuts from ebay see the image below www.stores.ebay.co.uk/tech-world-direct
Good service