Detailing - worth it ?? Lancashire recommendation

[Philb280]

Hi, usually do this myself (by hand) but the F is quite swirly especially when the sun hits it and I thought I’d treat it to a proper detail / correction and possibly ceramic coating.

Just wondering

1 is it worth it
2 has anyone got any recommendations for a outfit in Preston or Lancashire

Cheers

[Webarno]

Just had mine done and I think it’s more than worth it!

See here:
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=6580&p=66618#p66618

[Jaguandy]

Once done you need to be very careful washing it. Detailing World has loads of useful info. However no matter how careful you are, the swirls will gradually return. Unless you have self-healing PPF.

[Pilot Pete]

Did mine yesterday, DIY. I have a Das6 Pro+ DA polisher, which I’ve had for a few years. Bought the F Type earlier this year with a view to giving it a full detail as and when I could fit it in. I don’t have access to a covered workshop, so all the work would have to be done on the driveway. This meant the height of summer was oit really as it would just be too hot to polish successfully. Yesterday and today have been perfect.

When I bought the car the paintwork was hazy and felt like wet and dry paper to touch due to the amount of contamination embedded in the paint. The nose was so badly stone chipped that I elected to get that resprayed a month or so back.

The plan was not to make it perfect, as the paint probably wasn’t quite good enough for that, but to resurrect it and make it look as good as I could. I started with my usual two stage wash, then used Valet Pro ‘Dragon’s Breath’ around the wheel arches and side panels where most of the brake ‘fallout’ had landed and embedded.

Next stage was to clay the paintwork fully. This pulls all the contaminants out of the paint and leaves it silky smooth - so much better than before.

I had previously cleaned out and filled as many stone chips on the bonnet as I could, with paint left over from the respray and some clear coat on top. Now these had fully hardened I rubbed the little clear coat ‘bumps’ with 2000, then 3000 grit wet and dry to get them flat and blended to the surrounding paintwork. This is the ‘No going back’ stage where you have wet sanded and left dull patches all over your bonnet!

Rinsed off again and then set to with the DA polisher using a Hexlogic medium cut pad and Menzerna 2500 medium cut polish. Once the whole car was done I applied Collinite 476S wax o leave a gleaming exterior. It’s not perfect, far from it, but most of the marks have been successfully removed and the remaining tiny stone chips that I’d missed are only visible very close to. I’m happy with the results.

It took me a full day, and at 55 with a bad back I was barely able to walk last night after finishing! It’s easing up this morning and I am happy with my efforts and the results I have achieved.

[Webarno]

Did mine yesterday, DIY. I have a Das6 Pro+ DA polisher, which I’ve had for a few years. Bought the F Type earlier this year with a view to giving it a full detail as and when I could fit it in. I don’t have access to a covered workshop, so all the work would have to be done on the driveway. This meant the height of summer was oit really as it would just be too hot to polish successfully. Yesterday and today have been perfect.

When I bought the car the paintwork was hazy and felt like wet and dry paper to touch due to the amount of contamination embedded in the paint. The nose was so badly stone chipped that I elected to get that resprayed a month or so back.

The plan was not to make it perfect, as the paint probably wasn’t quite good enough for that, but to resurrect it and make it look as good as I could. I started with my usual two stage wash, then used Valet Pro ‘Dragon’s Breath’ around the wheel arches and side panels where most of the brake ‘fallout’ had landed and embedded.

Next stage was to clay the paintwork fully. This pulls all the contaminants out of the paint and leaves it silky smooth - so much better than before.

I had previously cleaned out and filled as many stone chips on the bonnet as I could, with paint left over from the respray and some clear coat on top. Now these had fully hardened I rubbed the little clear coat ‘bumps’ with 2000, then 3000 grit wet and dry to get them flat and blended to the surrounding paintwork. This is the ‘No going back’ stage where you have wet sanded and left dull patches all over your bonnet!

Rinsed off again and then set to with the DA polisher using a Hexlogic medium cut pad and Menzerna 2500 medium cut polish. Once the whole car was done I applied Collinite 476S wax o leave a gleaming exterior. It’s not perfect, far from it, but most of the marks have been successfully removed and the remaining tiny stone chips that I’d missed are only visible very close to. I’m happy with the results.

It took me a full day, and at 55 with a bad back I was barely able to walk last night after finishing! It’s easing up this morning and I am happy with my efforts and the results I have achieved.

Looks FANTASTIC! Great work!

[Jimmyrn85]

That is stunning Pete, can I bring mine up to yours!!!

[Pilot Pete]

You’re more than welcome to Jimmy. Just let me know when you’re coming and I’ll make sure I’m out!!!

[Tel]

Hi, usually do this myself (by hand) but the F is quite swirly especially when the sun hits it and I thought I’d treat it to a proper detail / correction and possibly ceramic coating.

Just wondering

1 is it worth it

Cheers

Depends on whether you intend to keep the car and it's your pride and joy Sunday blast toy or, it's a daily driver that gets covered in muck I guess.
I've been polishing bikes and cars for 30 odd years for showing and ended up going for PPF on my car as it's something that I drive and show.

If you value keeping your paint in tip top condition (which incidentally is very difficult with the very soft JLR paints compared to other manufacturers) paint correction and then PPF is the way forward.

Ceramic coat is a sacrificial layer that generally lasts for a few months and is very hydrophobic, but invariably returns you back to the paint correction stage unless you are super careful when washing.
Our first V8S in 2014 was Ceramic coated and so is our current XFS battlewagon - Personally I wouldn't waste my money again.

Our current V8R was custom wrapped with healable film from new, so there's no swirls, no polishing to do, (although I do Ceramic QD for wetness before concours shows) and no paint chips.
Filtered water and a MF cloth is all that's needed to clean, in fact I think it's only had 2 wet washes in 7 years of ownership!

Cost wise if I consider all the products I used to get through and still have adournign the racks of my workshop, plus ceramic coating and boosting I think PPF is most cost effective...if it's a keeper car.

There's been the odd heart stopping moment when my mountain bike fell down the passenger side door...I had to polish that scratch out with a kettle of hot water!

[Philb280]

Pilot - you look like you’ve done a good job - love that colour.
I was offered the loan of a DA polisher but I’m not confident so usually go by hand - which at 54 is blooming hard work

Tel

Thanks for your thoughts on ceramic coating- will have a proper think about it. It’s a daily as in i use it twice a week for going to gym then on to work , if the weather is kind then I walk ( except the gym days) I have a toy in the garage but the F does spend a lot of time in there but I’m not precious about using it over winter / when it rains.

Certainly something to think about.

[Jimmyrn85]

Pete!! Not happening, I’m just gonna rock up unannounced!!